Lucky

Lucky to have been where I have been

If you followed the link two posts ago and watched the video (I tried to post it here, but the embed option was denied me), you would have noticed Colbie Caillat wandering around on a beach somewhere and Jason Mraz looking classy in some Old World city. The first time I saw the video, a few weeks ago, I thought, 'That place looks familiar.' Then I realized that it was Prague, and that I was going back to Prague for fall break.

This time, instead of the dreaded overnight bus, we took the overnight train. Although I was just a little tiny bit too tall for the bunk, the overall sleeper-cabin experience was much more comfortable than the bus had been. We (Tika, Robin, and Anička, who teaches in Košice) arrived just after 7 a.m. on Friday morning, and dropped our things off at the Old Prague Hostel. This hostel definitely had the previous one beat for proximity to the Old Town. Once we'd left our big bags behind, we walked into the center, and I got to talk about Jan Hus and the Reformation and whatever else I could remember/make up about Old Town Square. And then we went to Bohemia Bagel and ate some bagels and drank some fresh-squeezed OJ and coffee, and that right there made the whole trip pretty much worth it.

So we walked across Charles Bridge, and went to the castle, and saw the cathedral, and walked around Mala Strana, and ate lunch, and climbed the astronomical clock tower, and then actually checked in at the hostel. Rob and Anička wanted to nap (Rob having a cold the whole time we were there and no one having slept fantastically well on the train, despite it being far superior to the bus), so I went looking for a camera shop I'd found online to buy a new battery, and Tika came with. The shop, Foto Škoda, is right off Wenceslas Square, and I highly recommend it if you need any kind of apparatus while you're in Prague.

On Saturday morning we took our day trip, this time to a town south of Prague called Český Krumlov. We endured the world's hottest bus for about three hours, but it was well worth it. The Vltava River, which makes about an 85-degree turn through Prague, horseshoes through Český Krumlov. I really like bridges, and the idea of living near a river, so I was quite taken with the town. It retains its medieval streets, most of which lead up to the chateau, whose round, painted tower is a landmark. The chateau's former moat has been home to bears since around the 17th century, but the bears seemed to be hiding when we looked for them. One of the highlights of our visit was the restaurant we ate at for lunch. Both Rick Steves and Lonely Planet mentioned U dwau Maryi as a good place to eat, and I was all for going, because it's a medieval-type place, but I didn't want to foist my weirdness on anyone else. When we found it, we all agreed that it looked good, so in we went. We sat at the back, right out by the river, with blankets and hot wine to warm us, and I had millet casserole with ham and cabbage, mostly because when I read the words "millet casserole" I was instantly fascinated. It was good, although, as you might imagine, rather hard to describe. The closest thing I can think of would be some kind of casserole made with grits, and yet it wasn't like that at all.
On Sunday we planned to visit the Jewish quarter in the morning. Upon arriving at the Pinkas Synagogue, we saw that there was, of course, a line to get in, and then, upon considering the prices, decided it wasn't really necessary to visit the various sites of the Jewish Museum (which I'd already been to, anyway). I did want to go visit the Old-New Synagogue, though, since it's the oldest synagogue in Prague and I hadn't been there before. The synagogue was built in the second half of the 13th century, and according to legend, the Golem of Prague is stored in its attic.

Besides the religious sites, the other really cool thing about Josefov is the Art Nouveau architecture. There are so many beautiful buildings in the area, and in other parts of the city as well. In the afternoon, I went to the Convent of St Agnes of Bohemia (Klášter Sv Anežky České), which is home to the National Gallery in Prague's Bohemian and Central European medieval art collection. It took me a minute to find the convent, because the signs pointing it out seemed to lead to dead ends; but the entrance is sort of in a corner. The art collection was much larger than I'd expected it to be, and was almost exclusively religious art. There were lots of Madonnas and crucifixes and saints, and the tags in English were very well-written, but made me laugh, because they just use such silly expressions to talk about art sometimes. You could also walk around the oldest parts of the convent, dating from the 13th century, with markers where St Agnes and Wenceslas I and his wife Cunigunde are buried. As trite as it sounds, I had a feeling of peace walking around looking at the art and architecture.

That night being Halloween, we had to go out, although most of the actual parties had been the night before. We managed to end up at Prague's Australian bar, Fat Boy's, which was fantastic because A) it was a non-smoking establishment, B) they had Magners, and C) there was an NFL game (Patriots and Vikings) on the telly. What more can you want out of your Halloween than that?

Monday morning it behooved me to cruise around the mall, and then we watched the astronomical clock ding at noon and had some real hamburgers for lunch. After that I took off for a wander. I ended up on a hilltop park to the northeast of the castle, where there were real Praguers enjoying their day off, walking and playing and running with their dogs. From that vantage point, this is what I saw: And lo, as I looked over the Vltava and the city, I said to myself, 'Hey, isn't there a big cemetery over there in Žižkov? And isn't Alfons Mucha buried there?' And myself said, 'I think you're right. We should go find it.' And though a third part of myself said, 'It's already three and you're supposed to meet the others at five; you'll never make it in time,' the rest of me was ready to go from the word "cemetery." So we all speedwalked down the hill, across the river, past the bus station, and up another hill into Žižkov, and finally reached the cemetery. In the picture above, it's to the left of and past the big TV tower.

The cemetery, Olšany Cemetery, was gorgeous. It turns out that Mucha isn't buried there, and I only got to see a fraction of it, but it was supercool. By the time I got there it was late afternoon, and there were fallen leaves and ivy everywhere, and some of the older mausoleums were broken down and boarded up...it was everything I've ever wanted in a cemetery. I just wish I'd gone earlier so I could have looked around more. It's possible that it was the highlight of my trip. There I felt accomplished and in awe and a little tiny bit creeped out (there were LOTS of angel statues, and it reminded me of "Blink," my favorite episode of Doctor Who) and like I couldn't have picked a better day than All Saints' Day to go. Because it was dusky when I was there, a lot of my pictures are a little out of focus, but I think it adds to the ambience, if photographs can have ambience.

On Tuesday before we left we stocked up on bagels and I had a lemon-lime-ginger presse that was both exorbitantly expensive and wonderfully delicious. Then we got on our trains and subsequent buses and made it back into our dear Slovakia and home to Tisovec.

In conclusion, I have a message for the people of Prague: I hate to break this to you, but I'm pretty sure your city is fake.

You really expect me to believe that that's real? I mean, really?